Clothing and Fashion in Ancient Egypt
Fashion in Ancient Egypt refers to the clothing styles adopted by the Egyptians from the end of the Neolithic period, approximately 3100 B.C., until the fall of the Ptolemaic Kingdom with the death of Queen Cleopatra around 30 B.C. The garments of this period were notable for their vibrant colors and diverse fabrics, frequently adorned with precious stones and jewelry. Ancient Egyptian attire was designed not only for visual appeal but also for comfort, ensuring that wearers could remain cool in the harsh desert climate. Linen was the primary fabric used in Ancient Egyptian clothing, chosen for its capacity to alleviate the effects of the subtropical heat. This fabric is produced from the flax plant, with fibers extracted from its stem. The techniques of spinning, weaving, and sewing played a crucial role in Egyptian culture. While vegetable dyes were sometimes used on textiles, most clothing was generally left in its natural color. Although wool was acknowledged, it was considered impure, and only the wealthy could afford garments made from animal fibers, which were often subject to cultural restrictions. Wool was occasionally used for women's outer garments but was banned in temples and other sacred locations.
Individuals of lower social status, such as laborers and peasants, regularly wore Shinta, a linen garment that was widely used among the general population. Slaves often worked without any clothing. The most common headwear was referred to as khat or herbal, a striped fabric predominantly worn by men. During the period of the Pyramids, known as the Old Kingdom, which commenced around 2130 B.C., clothing was relatively simple. Men typically donned skirts called Shendyt, which were fastened at the waist and could be styled in various manners, including folding or gathering at the front. These skirts were relatively short during this time. In the following Middle Kingdom period, around 1600 B.C., the length of the skirts began to increase. By approximately 1420 B.C., garments such as lightweight jackets or long-sleeved blouses, along with longer dresses for women, became common. Throughout the Old, Middle, and New Kingdoms, ancient Egyptian women primarily wore a straightforward garment known as Kalasiris. Women's clothing in ancient Egypt was generally more conservative than that of men, with dresses typically secured by one or two straps and extending to the ankle. The upper part of the dress could be adjusted to rest at the bust, and the length of the garment often indicated the wearer’s social standing. Women embellished their dresses with beads or feathers for decorative effect and frequently chose to wear shawls, capes, or robes. The shawl, crafted from fine linen, measured approximately 4 feet in width and 13 or 14 feet in length, and was typically styled in a pleated manner.
In ancient Egypt, it was customary for children to remain without clothing until they reached the age of six. Once they turned six, they were allowed to wear garments to protect themselves from the harsh climate. A common hairstyle for these children was the side-lock, which featured a section of uncut hair on the right side of the head. Although they were typically unclothed, children often adorned themselves with various forms of jewelry, such as anklets, bracelets, collars, and hair accessories. As they grew older, they began to emulate the fashion styles of their parents. In the context of ancient Egyptian attire, wigs were of considerable significance, especially among kings, rulers, and wealthy individuals of both sexes. These wigs were made using diverse techniques, sometimes incorporating human hair and at other times utilizing fibers from date palms. They were frequently styled in tight curls and narrow braids. Both men and women wore these wigs during special occasions, often embellished with cones of scented fat that melted to release delightful fragrances of perfumes and hair products.
Jewelry was highly esteemed in ancient Egypt, cutting across various social strata, from the wealthy elite to the less fortunate. These ornaments were generally large and somewhat heavy. The primary function of jewelry was to enhance aesthetic appeal, serving as a complement to the simple white linen attire preferred by the ancient Egyptians. They favored vibrant hues, shiny gemstones, and precious metals, as illustrated by the remarkable artifacts of King Tutankhamun housed in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. These exquisite pieces were made from materials sourced locally, including gold extracted from Egypt's eastern desert and Nubia, which remained an Egyptian territory for many centuries. In contrast, silver was a scarce resource, imported from Asia, and was often considered more precious than gold. The eastern desert also provided a crucial supply of colorful semi-precious stones such as carnelian, amethyst, and jasper. Turquoise was mined in the Sinai Peninsula, while the deep blue lapis lazuli was obtained from far-off Afghanistan. Furthermore, glass and faience—glazed materials derived from a base of stone or sand—were favored alternatives to natural stones due to their wide range of colors. The ancient Egyptians exhibited exceptional skill in crafting jewelry from turquoise and metals like gold and silver, as well as small beads. Both men and women adorned themselves with vividly colored earrings, necklaces, and other decorative items. Those who could not afford gold or precious stones often turned to creating jewelry from colored pottery beads, which were also artistically designed.
The practice of embalming significantly contributed to the development of cosmetics and perfumes. Ancient Egypt was famous for its luxurious and highly coveted perfumes, which ranked among the most expensive in the ancient world. Compared to other ancient cultures, the Egyptians were the most frequent users of makeup. They decorated their nails and hands with henna. A wealth of artifacts related to cosmetic preservation can be found in the Egyptian Museum, particularly in the esteemed collection of King Tutankhamun, which is accessible to visitors during regular museum tours. Black eyeliner, made from Galena, was used to enhance and define the eyes, while eye shadow was created from crushed malachite. The red pigment for lips, typically associated with women, was derived from ochre. These cosmetic formulations were often combined with animal fats to improve their texture and durability. Both genders applied Galena or powdered malachite not only for beauty but also due to the belief that it provided protection against dust and dirt. Research published by the American Chemical Society in the Journal of Analytical Chemistry indicated that the presence of lead in these cosmetics was intentional. The results imply that lead, when combined with naturally occurring body salts, generates nitric oxide, which is recognized for its immune-boosting properties. It is suggested that the ancient Egyptians intentionally designed these products to enhance immunity, potentially helping to prevent eye infections.
The footwear of that era was marked by a blend of practicality and sophistication, with distinct categories including civilian shoes, military boots, children's footwear—which were essentially scaled-down versions of adult designs—and the ornate shoes donned by nobility. Footwear was predominantly unisex, featuring leather sandals or, for the clergy, those crafted from papyrus. Since Egyptians often went barefoot, sandals were mainly utilized for special events or circumstances requiring foot protection.